Worrying about getting a flat tyre puts a lot of people off relying on a bike to get to work. In practice, punctures are much rarer than beginners expect, and fixing one at the roadside takes about ten minutes once you've done it a couple of times.
The original author of this article had two commuter bikes that kept getting flats, including a department-store bike that punctured a couple of times a month. After a few changes to tyres, pressure and riding position, both went puncture-free for over three years. Here's what made the difference.
The short version
- Carry a spare tube, tyre levers and a pump. Swapping the tube is quicker than patching it at the roadside.
- Buy tubes in packs of five or so: two at home, two at work and one in your bag.
- Work out why you punctured, or it'll happen again.
- Good tyres and the right pressure prevent most flats.
- Stay calm. It's a ten-minute job, and you'll do it faster if you're not cross about it.
Why tyres go flat
There are two main kinds of puncture.
Pinch flats
A pinch flat happens when the tyre hits something hard, like a kerb edge or a pothole, and squashes the tube against the wheel rim. It's much more likely if the tyre pressure is too low.
How to spot one: two small slits close together, like a snakebite, with no hole in the tyre and nothing stuck in it.
Sharp objects
On a well-maintained bike, this is the most common cause: glass, nails, thorns, wire and metal shards.
How to spot one: usually a single hole in the tube, often with a matching cut in the tyre, or with the culprit still stuck in it.
What to carry
You wouldn't drive without a spare wheel and a jack. A small kit lives in a saddle bag or your backpack:
- Tyre levers (a set of three, lightweight plastic is fine)
- A spare inner tube in the right size and valve type
- A mini pump that suits your valves (Presta, Schrader or both)
- A cycling multi-tool
- A patch kit (optional on a commute)
- A pair of disposable gloves, to keep chain grease off your hands and work clothes
- Duct tape
Tip: wrap 20–30 turns of duct tape around half a pencil. It weighs nothing and can fix everything from a split tyre to a loose mudguard.
Don't skimp on the pump. You don't need anything fancy: a metal mini-pump with dual action (it pumps on both the push and pull stroke) gets a tyre to riding pressure much faster than a cheap plastic one. Park Tool makes good, reasonably priced workshop tools if you want to do more of your own maintenance.
Also find out whether your wheels have quick-release levers, thru-axles or nuts that need a spanner, so you're not finding out at the roadside. On an e-bike with a hub motor, you'll also need to unplug the motor cable; ask the shop to show you how.
Fixing a flat at the roadside
Swapping in a new tube is quicker and more reliable than patching one in the cold and rain. Patch the old tube later at home or at work, and keep it as a spare.
- Take the wheel off. Open the quick release or thru-axle, or loosen the nuts. For a rear wheel, shift to the smallest cog first and ease the wheel past the derailleur. Put the gloves on; this is the greasy bit.
- Let out any remaining air.
- Lever the tyre off. Push one tyre lever under the tyre bead and hook it onto a spoke. Insert a second lever a few centimetres along and slide it around the rim until one side of the tyre comes free.
- Remove the tube, pushing the valve back through the rim.
- Find the cause. Look over the outside of the tyre, then carefully run your gloved fingers around the inside to find anything still stuck in it. If you skip this step, the new tube will be flat within a kilometre.
- Check the rim tape. It covers the spoke holes inside the rim. If it's damaged or out of place, a strip of duct tape will do as a temporary fix.
- Fit the new tube. Put the valve through the rim hole first, then tuck the tube into the tyre all the way round, without twists.
- Add a little air, just enough to give the tube shape. This stops it getting pinched as you refit the tyre.
- Refit the tyre. Starting opposite the valve, push the bead back over the rim with your thumbs, working round towards the valve. Try not to use levers here; they can pinch the new tube.
- Inflate fully, checking that the tyre is seated evenly all round. A wobbly line on the tyre wall above the rim means it isn't.
- Refit the wheel. Check that it's tight, centred, and not rubbing on the brakes.
Fix the tyre problem, not just the tube
Cheap tyres
A big reason beginners puncture so often is the bike they started on. Department-store "bike in a box" deals often come with tyres that look the part but have little puncture protection, and with flimsy tubes.
Almost any decent aftermarket tyre is an improvement. Better commuting tyres have a puncture-protection layer under the tread: a band of tough rubber, Kevlar or similar. They're a bit heavier and slower than racing tyres, but on a commute, arriving is more important than arriving quickly. While you're at it, swap knobbly off-road tyres for smoother road or "city" tyres if you mostly ride on tarmac, and replace the tubes too.
Tubeless tyres
Since this article was first written, tubeless tyres have become common on mountain bikes, gravel bikes and many commuting and e-bike wheels. There's no inner tube. Instead, liquid sealant inside the tyre plugs most small holes from thorns and glass while you ride, often before you even notice. They also can't pinch flat in the usual way, so you can run lower pressures for comfort.
The trade-offs: you need tubeless-ready rims and tyres, the sealant needs topping up every few months, and a large cut still needs a plug kit or a tube as a backup. If you puncture a lot and your wheels support it, they're worth considering. Ask your bike shop.
Worn and old tyres
Tyres wear out, rear tyres fastest (especially if you like skidding). Replace a tyre before the tread wears through, when you can see the protective layer or casing threads.
Rubber also ages. If a tyre is more than about five years old, or shows cracks when you squeeze the sidewall, replace it. Once a week, look over your tyres for embedded glass or stones, cuts and bulges.
Why do I keep getting punctures?
If your tyres are good and in good condition, check these next.
Tyre pressure
Riding with too little air is the top cause of pinch flats. The safe pressure range is printed on the tyre wall, often in both bar and psi. Stay within it, and towards the top if you're getting pinch flats.
If you don't have a gauge, squeeze the tyre: it should feel firm, but dent slightly when you push hard with your thumb. A separate pressure gauge is worth having, though, as the gauges on cheap pumps are often well off.
Rim tape
Take the tyre off and check the rim tape. It should cover every spoke hole completely. Damaged, slipped or missing rim tape lets the spoke holes cut into the tube, causing flats on the inner side of the tube. Some cheap bikes come with none at all.
Wheel damage
After a hard hit, check the rim for dents, cracks or sharp edges on the inside. Don't ride on a damaged rim: it tends to fail at the worst moment, usually under hard braking.
The valve
Less often, a leaky or damaged valve causes a slow puncture that goes down over several days. If you can't find a hole anywhere, suspect the valve. A Presta valve core can sometimes be tightened or replaced.
Riding habits that prevent flats
Don't hug the kerb. Many beginners ride right at the edge of the road, where glass, nails and debris collect. Riding 30 cm (1 ft) further out often moves you from the gutter's rubbish onto clean tarmac. Check your local road rules on road position, and stay safe in traffic.
Look ahead. If you see glass in time, ride around it, but only if it's safe to move out. Never swerve into traffic to avoid debris.
Ride straight through debris you can't avoid. Weaving through it grinds the debris into the tyre.
Respect kerbs and potholes. Hitting kerbs, dropping off steps and skidding all increase wear and pinch flats.
Check your tyres often. A 60-second squeeze and look each week saves a lot of roadside stops.
Patching a tube
Patching is a good way to turn a punctured tube into a spare.
- Clean and roughen the area around the hole well. A good repair depends on preparation.
- With a traditional patch kit, spread the glue, then wait until it's dry to the touch before pressing the patch on. That's usually about five minutes; check the instructions on your kit.
- Self-adhesive patches are quicker and easier, but tend to be less durable.
London Cycling Campaign has a good step-by-step guide to fixing a puncture.
Patches occasionally fail over time, so it's sensible to ride on a new or unpatched tube and keep the patched one as your spare.
This article is a 2026 rewrite by Cole of Mark's 2019 original, with tubeless tyres added.